When installing electrical, you first want to make sure that you are going to have the supplies that you need. Here is a list of supplies needed for every pond:
- ½” Conduit, to run from main electrical service panel to equipment
- ½” Brass, to run from electrical service panel to pool lights
- Pond Lights
- GFCI for Pond Lights
- Light Switch
- Pump Hookup(s)
- Bonding equipment for components
Before starting your work, you must first remember that all wires and work must be left exposed for inspection. You can have your lines buried, but just not filled in. A good place to start is with the sub-panel. If possible, it is easiest and best to place this as close to your main service panel as possible. Depending on the size of your pool, you will need a specific amperage breaker (generally, a 50A breaker will do, but be sure to calculate your amperage beforehand). You can attach your light fixtures to the steel, as this is a great anchor point. You can also run your ground to the steel, as it is an easy way to ground your light fixtures.
Next, you will want to install the pond lights, and brass runs to the equipment. When installing pond lights, you will want to make sure that they extend out past the steel by 3”. It is easiest to run your brass runs in the same trench as your PVC from the drains and pumps, as it saves some time and energy, and it will all be covered up at the same time.
You will also have to run your conduit from your main electrical service panel to the equipment pad. This isn’t always a straight run, as if there are more than four 90 degree bends you will want to install a junction box. Junction boxes help when trying to run wire, as it can get tricky to try and run wire through a maze of conduit tubes. As a note, if you are planning on having any EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing) run underground, you will have to wrap it in electrical tape. You must do this, as the steel used in these pipes can corrode under soil, and this will prevent the corrosion from occurring.
Once you have run all conduit you will want to cover the lights with plastic before shotcreting (so that the lights are not ruined), and seal any appliances that are within 5 ft. of the pool (for building code).
<>Now that the groundwork has been completed, all wires will need to be pulled through the conduit. Once this is completed, breakers will need to be installed into the sub-panel, and switches will need to be installed for lights and jets. You may want to purchase an all in one system to control and automate all of your electronics. There are plenty of systems out there, and it is suggested to do your research to find the system that suits your needs.
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Building Your Pond
Plumbing is one of the most important processes in building a Koi pond, and also the easiest to run into problems with, as there are so many variables. You want to make sure that you have all proper lengths and widths on pipes, appropriate pumps with the appropriate power, Filter(s), Water leveler, drains, etc. One commonly overlooked specification is finding the correct sized pumps and piping. Originally I used a ___hp pump, and ___ diameter piping. I found that power wasn't distributed evenly throughout the Koi pond, so decided to use ___diameter piping, and 2 ___hp pumps. By doing this I was able to keep even pressure throughout all of the pipes, and in turn keeping happy fish. Also, having several low-pressure pumps keeps electricity costs lower. When determining what size pumps and pipes to use, you want to take into account how long your pipes run, the diameter of your piping, and the height in which water will have to be moved. Using the exact calculation is...
Building Your Pond
After the plumbing phase, comes the steel installation. Steel is used to reinforce the concrete in the Koi pond. Although concrete has great compression strength, it has minimal tensile strength. Steel bars, (or rebar), which can withstand high levels of tensile stress are used to create a framework within the concrete to add strength under high levels of pressure from the water within the pond. Using steel in concrete is known as reinforced concrete. The general rule of thumb is to lay the rebar down one way, 12" apart, and then lay it down perpendicular to that, also 12" apart, so you create a 12" x 12" grid. This grid is commonly referred to as either a 12 on 12 grid, or 12 inch on center grid. Places that are more weight-bearing, such as waterfalls or deep areas in a pond, they will use a closer grid, such as 6” x 12”, or 6” x 6” to increase support. Rebar usually runs in 60’ pieces. If the bar is not...
Building Your Pond
When building your Koi pond, you want to first double check your pre-planning steps. You first want to check with all utility companies to ensure that there are no underground lines that you are going to hit. Each state has at least one Underground Service Alert provider. The Underground Service Alert provider will notify all necessary companies to come out and survey your yard to make sure all lines are sound. If there are no lines running through your yard, or through your plans, the company will mark the road in front of your house “NC” which stands for “No Conflict”. Click Here to find a list of Underground Alert Service providers in all states. You will also want to get a City Permit. Although every City/ State has their own requirements, some general requirements include: A Fixed Enclosure – An approved wall, barrier, or fence that separates the pool from outside objects. Self-Closing, Self-Latching Doors – All...
Building Your Pond
Rock work can be one of the most aesthetically important parts to building a Koi Pond. Having nice rock work can make even the most basic ponds visually appealing. The key to good rock work is planning. Having large, round rocks with flat surfaces helps the building process, as no rocks will need any alterations. Find the rocks that you will want to use, and plan out where you will set them. Once you have done so, you will want to go ahead and lay them into their appropriate places. Note that you will have to dig the ground to form to your rock, like two puzzle pieces. Once you have dug your rock placement, and have the rocks in place, you will want to seal them to the fill. A good product for rock seal is Stonetech rock sealant. This will prevent any water from getting into the cracks, which can cause erosion. If you are stacking rocks on top of each other, for something like a waterfall, you will want to use a standard mortar or grout mix of...
Building Your Pond
Waterfalls There are several different ways to add a waterfall to your Koi Pond. The first and easiest option is to purchase and install a waterfall kit. This is obviously the easiest, as the kits include all necessary equipment, with instructions on how to install and operate. Several things to look for in a quality waterfall kit include a pump, preferably one that is energy efficient and has a warranty. Depending on the amount of usage, you want to make sure that your pump wont burn out. You can find waterfall kits at most local pool or home garden supply stores. Be sure to research your options beforehand, as there are most likely more options than just what your local supply store carries. The other option is to build a waterfall yourself. In order to do so, you will need the following materials: Rocks Mortar PVC piping A submersible water pump Pond Liner You will first want to play out what you want your waterfall to look like. It is best to...
Building Your Pond
Once all electrical work has been completed, you will need to get a Pre-Gunite City Inspection. Once this has been approved, you can start the concrete phase. Shotcrete (concrete applied pneumatically (via air pressure)) is the material that is used to form the ‘shell’ of the Koi pond. On average, Koi ponds are usually 6” thick, and 8” thick in the coves (the bent area between the wall and floor of the Koi pond). The top 6” of the Koi pond is called the bond beam. The bond beam is usually 12” thick to increase the structural integrity of the Koi pond. Shotcrete is applied at 100 – 150 psi pressure. This works to compress the concrete, causing a stronger bond that can withstand more pressure, and has less of a chance of cracking. Shotcrete is the common method to pouring a Koi pond because no forms are needed. The concrete used is generally low-slump, meaning low in moisture. The low-slump...
Building Your Pond
When sealing a pond, you must first make sure of a few things. You want to make sure that the pond is rid of any dirt and debris, as dirt and debris can cause a barrier between your seal and concrete, which can eventually cause cracks, and leaks, and allow bacteria and fungi to grow through your pond. Along with ridding your pond of dirt and debris, you will also want to make sure that it is dry. Once the pond is dry and clean, you want to apply a layer of sealer to a section of your pool. We suggest not applying sealer to the entire pool at once, as you will have to smooth out the layers to avoid clumping and dips where cracks or imperfections may have formed. It is suggested to use a paint roller to apply the sealer. Use extension rods as needed, as you do not want to walk over any fresh sealant. As you apply the first layer of sealant to sections of your pond, you will then want to cover the pond with a tarp, held down by stones or bricks or...
Building Your Pond
The Excavation process is the ‘ground breaking’ step. First you mark off your perimeter with paint marks. From there you will need to start excavating the dirt. Depending on the size of your Koi pond, generally a backhoe, bobcat, or shovel(s) are used. If you are going to rent machinery, be aware that the more time it takes, the more money it will cost. If you are hiring an excavation company to do your work for you, don’t be afraid of big companies. Although the smaller, more localized companies are great, what it really comes down to is experience. Ask as many questions as possible. See how long the company has been in business, how large the company is, and how many ponds they have dug. Search for reviews online at places like Yelp. One potential problem that is frequently overlooked is access to your pond. If you are bringing in heavy machinery, you always want a clear path from the road. Many times...
Building Your Pond
When installing electrical, you first want to make sure that you are going to have the supplies that you need. Here is a list of supplies needed for every pond: ½” Conduit, to run from main electrical service panel to equipment ½” Brass, to run from electrical service panel to pool lights Pond Lights GFCI for Pond Lights Light Switch Pump Hookup(s) Bonding equipment for components Before starting your work, you must first remember that all wires and work must be left exposed for inspection. You can have your lines buried, but just not filled in. A good place to start is with the sub-panel. If possible, it is easiest and best to place this as close to your main service panel as possible. Depending on the size of your pool, you will need a specific amperage breaker (generally, a 50A breaker will do, but be sure to calculate your amperage beforehand). You can attach your light fixtures to the steel, as this is a great anchor...
Building Your Pond
Pressure Wash After all cleanup has been taken care of, you will want to pressure wash your pool. This will help to remove all dirt, and cement film left behind. A thin layer of dried cement will be left behind, called ‘surface cement’. Be sure to spray all cracks between lights and other fixtures. Acid Wash Before you fill your pool, you will want to give it an acid wash. The reason for doing this is to wash away any leftover grit, dust, and other debris left from the cement. For the acid wash, you will need diluted Muriatic Acid, a sump pump, a scrub brush and a towel. You will want to pour a small pool of water into the bottom of your Koi pond, and then mix the muriatic acid in with it. You will then want to place the sump pump in the center of the mixture, and start spraying your pool walls. You will notice a strong acid vapor, which is visible, and also very strong scented. Don’t be alarmed by the loud hissing sound...
Building Your Pond
Water pH It is extremely important to check the pH level in your pond frequently. An acceptable pH ranges between 6 and 8.5. The major concern of pH is the relationship of ammonia and nitrite toxicity. With 7 being neutral, every integer being an exponential increase in toxicities. Any pH level below 7 is considered ‘acidic’, while any pH level above 7 is considered ‘basic’. A pH over 8.5 can lead to fish disease, and eventually death. A higher pH level is generally caused by runoff from mortar, bricks, plant pots, or other runoff. A pH of 9 or more can damage a Koi fish’s kidneys and can lead to death. Adding salt to the water can help by detoxifying nitrites, killing parasites, and controlling algae. Adding too much salt can cause harm though. It is best to keep the salt level at around 0.1%. The mixture should be around 1 tablespoon of salt for every 10 gallons of water. It is very important to know how much...
Koi Fish
(Ah-Sog-Ee) Asagi are fully scaled, nonmetallic fish with a long history, but because they closely resemble Magoi (the wild black carp). Some hobbyists see them as unrefined, dull, and not proper koi at all. Certainly they are an acquired taste, far removed from the brilliantly tri colored modern Showa or the flashy koi grouped in Hikariutsuri. But their quiet elegance serves as a counterpart to their more exotic pond mates and they also have the potential to grow very large. Asagi have a long, yet simple history. The Asagi Magoi, one of the three recognized types of Magoi, is said to be the forerunner of all modern koi breeds. About 160 years ago, two mutants koi types arose from this proto-koi, namely the Konjo and the Narumi Asagi. Although instrumental in the development of Matsuba koi, the dark Konjo Asagi were not seen as having any value, and were kept mostly for food stock. However, Narumi Asagi have gone on to become one half of a recognized judging variety - the other...
Koi Fish
The Bekko Koi Fish is usually a white fish with black markings. The Bekko has also been known to be red, or yellow with black markings. The white Bekko is known as the Shiro Bekko Koi, the yellow is known as the Aka Bekko, and the red is known as the Ki Bekko. The Japanese translation means “tortoise shell.” The Bekko is commonly mistaken for the Utsuri Koi Fish.
Koi Fish
The Doitsu Koi Fish is a variation of the Sanke Koi. The Doitsu is a scale less version of the fish. Commonly the Doitsu is red, black and white. The Doitsu was created by cross breeding several types of German Carp.
Koi Fish
The Gin Matsuba Koi Fish is a metallic looking fish. It is normally a silver or red hue. The Gin Matsuba is part of the Hikary family. The Japanese translation is “pine cone.”
Koi Fish
The GinRin Kohaku Koi Fish is part of the Kohaku family. The GinRin is normally white with red shiny scales. The Japanese translation is silver (white metallic) and red.
Koi Fish
The Goromo Koi Fish is very similar to the standard Kohaku Koi, except instead of having the standard red patches, the edges of the scales normally have a black or blue hue to them. The breed of fish is a hybrid of the Kohaku and the Asagi Koi Fish. The breed came about in the 1950s.
Koi Fish
Kikokuryu are the metallic version of Kumonryu. Where the Kumonryu has muted, matte white and soft, deep black, the Kikokuryu has a metallic platinum-white and a glossy, lacquer-black. Kikokuryu originated from a crossing of Kumonryu and Platinum Ogon brood stock. What To Look For: Similar to Kumonryu, the pattern of any single Kikokuryu will change completely many times throughout it\'s lifespan. For this reason, body conformation and the quality of the colors themselves (but not the pattern) should be the first things considered when choosing a Kikokuryu. Be aware that if you buy a Kikokuryu solely for the pattern that it displays at the time of purchase, it is likely to change to a completely different pattern within a few months, if not sooner.
Koi Fish
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